Enlarged pores are not a disease, but a feature of the skin. You don’t have to fight them, although not all people want to accept them. The beauty industry knows this, but often offers a “miracle pore remedy” that turns out to be a dud. We figured out how to distinguish advertising from the truth, together with dermatologist and cosmetologist Yulia Vailova.
What are pores and why do we need them?
Inside our skin there are many small “factories” for the production of fat – sebaceous glands. They are 24/7 produce sebum – sebum. He needs to come out to wrap his skin. Mixed with sweat, this is our natural cream that moisturizes the skin and protects it from frost and germs.
“Pore” is the name given to the outlet of the sebaceous gland duct. This is the same “road” along which the fat comes out. The term “it’s time” itself is quite arbitrary; some researchers even consider its unprofessional. But millions of people around the world still use it.
Why are some people’s pores more noticeable than others?
Expanded (or enlarged) consider pores that are visible to the naked eye. They appear in people of different genders and ages. According to some reports, it is more common among Africans and Indians. But there are other factors.
Skin type
The more sebum there is, the wider the “road” along which it comes out should be. It’s like with car traffic – in places where there are a lot of cars, highways are made wide so that there are no traffic jams.
People with dry skin have small and unnoticeable pores because their skin does not produce oil well. On the contrary, in people with oily skin they are clearly visible – because their skin produces a lot of sebum.
You cannot change your skin type (change it from oily to dry). This is an innate property. Therefore, people with oily skin will never have as narrow pores as people with dry skin.
Age
Pores are expanding also with age, especially on the nose and cheeks. This happens because aged skin is less elastic than young skin. In it less collagen and elastin – proteins that give skin tone. Plus, the older we get, the slower and worse the cells in the upper layer of skin are renewed. They begin to accumulate on the surface and make it difficult for sebum to escape. It looks like traffic jams on the avenues. This makes the pores even more noticeable.
How to care for skin with enlarged pores
Pores cannot be erased from the face as if with an eraser. But some products and procedures can visually reduce them, making the skin denser.
Skin care products that “tighten pores” are divided into several categories:
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Products that temporarily camouflage enlarged pores, narrowing them visually. This effect is achieved by astringent components – for example, agaricic acid.
Concentrate for narrowing pores Bioderma Sebium Pore Refiner
2,902 rubles
The product slightly moisturizes the skin, mattifies it and “hides” the pores. The manufacturer also promises that the skin will become more uniform, there will be less sebum, and the pores will not become clogged.
erid: 25H8d7vbP8SRTvHa5QohYp / World of Medical Cosmetics LLC
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Products that affect sebum — make it more liquid, making it easier to reach the surface and reducing the volume of production. These are retinoids (all forms), fruit acids and, to a lesser extent, niacinamide.
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Products that rejuvenate the skin. These are again retinoids, acids (especially glycolic), anti-aging peptides and some antioxidants that stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin. But we must understand that cosmetics have a minimal effect on aging. You won’t be able to achieve the wow effect with creams alone.
Try retinoids
Retinoids are the entire group of vitamin A derivatives. The most famous representative is retinol. Science has proven that it rejuvenates the skin: it causes cells to renew themselves faster, makes the top layer of skin thinner and smoother, and, on the contrary, thickens the middle layer. This way the skin becomes more elastic and toned, which means the pores become smaller. In addition, retinoids affect the quantity and quality of sebum. Firstly, it becomes more liquid. And secondly, there is less of it.
Important: Retinoids are destroyed by ultraviolet light, so they are used in the evening.
Serum The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane
769 rubles
Oil emulsion with squalane simultaneously moisturizes and fights signs of aging. It is recommended to apply it after washing and before moisturizing cream.
erid: 25H8d7vbP8SRTvJ4Q27doN / YANDEX LLC
Don’t Touch My Skin Retinol Serum with retinol for all skin types
2,990 rubles
Serum without fragrances, dyes and essential oils may be suitable for sensitive skin. According to the description, it reduces inflammation and evens out skin texture.
erid: LatgBqmvN / STR Cosmetics LLC
Add fruit acids to your care
These include:
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salicylic acid
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almond,
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lipohydroxy acid,
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glycolic
Acids are similar to retinoids, but each has its own “trick”: azelaic acid is good brightens spots, salicylic fights with pimples, and almond irritates the skin minimally, so fits even sensitive.
Important: acids can be applied at any time of the day. Glycolic acid, like retinoids, should be used with caution in the summer – it makes the skin more sensitive to the sun.
Serum for oily skin COS DE BAHA Salicylic acid 4% Serum
706 rubles
Anti-inflammatory serum with aloe vera extract. It was invented specifically for oily and problematic skin. It exfoliates the stratum corneum, fights oily shine and acne, and makes the skin firmer and more elastic.
erid: 25H8d7vbP8SRTvJ4Q27doN / YANDEX LLC
Corrective peeling serum ART&FACT with mandelic acid 10%
463 rubles
Serum with antibacterial effect. According to the manufacturer, it is suitable for skin with rosacea and couperose. The stated effect is tone alignment, gentle exfoliation, normalization of the sebaceous glands.
erid: LatgBxW1Y / Alkor and Co LLC
Corrective cream-serum Icon Skin Azelaic Acid 10%
1,129 rubles
The product is intended for skin prone to inflammation and pigmentation. Contains 10% azelaic acid. The serum gently exfoliates the skin, fights inflammation and signs of post-acne.
erid: 25H8d7vbP8SRTvJ4Q27doN / YANDEX LLC
Don’t overdo it with active ingredients
The principle of “all the best at once” does not work in nursing. Both acids and retinoids can irritate and dry out the skin. Therefore, it is better to start with one component and introduce it into the routine gradually. Start with once or twice a week, let your skin get used to it and remember to moisturize and protect it from the sun.
Consult a cosmetologist
If you are ready for injections and hardware procedures, the doctor will select something specifically for your skin. The older the patient and the worse the skin tone, the more effort will be required. Typically, procedures need to be done multiple times and different ones combined.
Hardware techniques:
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Microneedling RF lifting – sometimes one procedure per year is enough, in some cases a course of 2-4 procedures is required with an interval of 2-4 months. Cons: unpleasant, quite expensive, you need to undergo a little rehabilitation.
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Regular RF lifting — a course of at least 7–10 procedures is required, the effectiveness is moderate. Pros: not painful and inexpensive, no rehabilitation.
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Laser resurfacing with ablative CO2-laser. Very effective, but not suitable for everyone. A couple of procedures per year is enough. Cons: expensive, requires serious rehabilitation for 5–7 days, high risk of side effects.
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Non-ablative laser rejuvenation – much less effective than grinding, and you need to do a course. Pros: no pain, no damage to the skin, no rehabilitation after the procedure.
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Photorejuvenation with intense pulsed light — you need a course of two to 7–10 procedures with an interval of a month. Efficiency is moderate.
Skin tightening injections:
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Introduction of polylactic acid.
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Collagen therapy and stimulators of collagen synthesis.
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Plasma therapy, PRP. This is when the patient’s own plasma, sometimes enriched with platelets, is injected into the skin.
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Biorevitalization. A solution of liquid hyaluronic acid is injected into the skin. It may contain additives: vitamins, peptides, amino acids, microelements.
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Introduction of polynucleotides. This is a type of biorevitalization. DNA fragments from fish sperm are injected into the skin. They force skin cells to produce new collagen, elastin and their own hyaluronic acid. This means renewing and rejuvenating.
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Mesothreads. Threads, which actually consist of surgical suture material, are inserted into the subcutaneous tissue. They stimulate collagen formation and tighten the skin. This is a somewhat outdated method – it is used less and less due to the risk of side effects and complications.
Which is unlikely to help with enlarged pores
Ultrasound
It is not used to tighten the skin itself. Ultrasonic SMAS lifting acts on structures under the skin.
Microneedling
This is an ineffective technique compared to classical mesotherapy and biorevitalization. A course of procedures is needed, there is a risk of infectious complications (often they do not follow all the rules of asepsis and antisepsis). Plus, the method acts mainly on the top layer of the skin, and to thicken it, you need to injure the dermis – the middle layer where collagen and elastin are produced. The effect after a course of microneedling is always weak and lasts only a couple of months. It is mainly seen by young patients, for whom a little trauma to the skin is enough for it to renew itself and look better.
Superficial chemical peels
These are those for which there is no rehabilitation (for example, PRX T33 and BioRePeel). Even if you do seven such peels, there will be no result.
To tighten the skin, you need to seriously damage it and undergo a course of procedures – at least 5-7. Moreover, you need to start with superficial light peels, and end with medium peels, such as salicylic and yellow (retinoid). An important nuance: yellow peeling is anti-aging. It should not be carried out before the age of 35.
Don’t expect a wow effect from carbon peeling and mesoscooter yet. Microcurrent therapy and myostimulation will not affect the pores in any way.
Cosmetics without active ingredients
If you have really noticeable enlarged pores, a simple clay mask or fabric patches may have zero effect. Even if they write “narrows pores” in large letters on the packaging.
Is it possible to prevent pores from expanding?
It is impossible to prevent enlarged pores – this is one of the characteristics of oily skin. But you can take better care of your skin and lead a healthy lifestyle so that your pores feel more or less good. Here are some working tips.
Review your diet and quit smoking
To prevent sebum from becoming too thick, you should reduce the following in your diet:
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foods with a high glycemic index (baked goods, sweets, sugar, chocolate, fast food),
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industrially processed foods (convenience foods, sausages, ready-made foods such as snacks, cereals, bars),
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soda and alcohol.
It is also better to give up smoking and vaping, including passive vaping.
On the contrary, it is better to eat more plant foods – vegetables, fruits, herbs and berries. And it’s also useful to get enough sleep.
Move regularly
Oddly enough, the composition of sebum is influenced by physical activity and weight. In people with obesity is being produced more sebum. Plus, sebum is thicker in sedentary people and overweight people. Accordingly, the skin may be oilier and the pores more noticeable.
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